Ok so agreed that Goa for most of us is related to sun, sand, beach, beer and party, nonetheless the crowds favourite Calangute to Baga beaches wherein they spend day long eating delicious fish, drink gallons of beer and gazing pretty women and sexy men. The nights are no different except there are few night bazaars to explore and shop, apart from carrying out our day time schedule. And did I mentioned riding bikes and jeeps is absolutely comfy here? Well thats Goa for most of us.
Between all this, its exceptional to discover the less crowded Morjim beach (half an hour ride on your bike from Baga) with decent stretch to let yourself be comfortable in your elements. The crowd mostly consist of foreigners doing their own things. Few to very few dignified Indians you will come across but in their own space again. The beach is clean and the sand is soft. There are two shower areas to wash after a serious adventure in the sea. The beach lay-out few shacks to cool off with drinks and food. Its advisable to carry your own water to drink thou.
But this time I was not adamant about the beach side of Goa but rather was looking forward to exploring the unexplored capital city Panjim. Its a shame that this place, which offers great range of cultural treasures including by far the largest Latin Quarters in Asia, is ignored by tourist in abundance. Sigh!
Okay so lets discover the food side of Panjim first. Presenting the Fontainhas. Viva Panjim (0832 242 2405), owned by the classy lady Linda, is about side street eating at the cosy comfort of your own home. Always packed with foreigners, the place has seating inside and out. Go in early for dinner. Further down the road is the vibrant and artistic Venite (0832 242 5537) offering European and Goan cuisine since close to 60 years now. Don't miss its balcony view of the street seating. For simple yet tasty lunch we head straight to Horseshoe (0832 243 1788), another Goan-Portugues restaurant wherein you can catch a glimpse of the chef preparing your dish while you relish on their dainty port wine.
For evening light snacks, we come across Casa-Fontainhas (0832 242 1553) offering variety of teas and cookies/cupcakes while you browse their small yet well range store for cushion covers, tea sets, artefacts and couple of furniture. Check out their seating area in the cafe to loosen up those clad muscles.
Then there is Tea Cafe Goa (www.demporesorts.com), comfy but lack variety in cookies and cakes to go with your teas and coffee. Next to this place is a by lane leads to almost hidden confectionary store offering variety thats by far most appetising to even look at. Plum cakes, banana cakes, choco biscuits, butter and cheese biscuits and many more to hand pick.
Excluding the eating part, Fontainhas recommend staying options that will make you go berserk with happiness. Head to Panjim Inn (31st January road, Fontainhas. jack: 0832 222 1122) amidst widening alleys, old mansions and portals, this heritage hotel has been their since 1800s serving people who are fond of old world charm. For budgeted pockets try Paradise Inn behind Panjim Inn for their courteous service and quality rooms. People who rather prefer homely stay should opt for Parklane Lodge (0832 222 7154) run by old couple, off the main road and ideal for quiet and relaxing holiday. The old couple are strict about confirming your booking only after you deposit some amount into their account as they have been cheated in the past. Fair enough I say.
After you have settled down and eaten well, its time to go shopping and sight seeing. Panjim is relatively small and can be explored on foot, provided you don't visit it during summers. There is Our Lady of Immaculate Church right in the centre of market street in its full glory and whiteness. Explore it leisurely.
Sunaparanta-Goa centre for the Arts is another must must see addition to the artistic streak for the tourist. Besides its fantastic heritage structure, the centre consists of several exhibition galleries, featuring well known artists works, an artist in-house studio, still coming up library and well equipped Cafe Al-Fresco in the court yard. (www.sgcfa.org)
All the fashionistas can head to Sacha Mendes well-curated collection of clothes and accessories Sacha's Store (0832 222 2035) in the central part of the city. Besides this store, you have The Bombay Store to peep into as well. Again right in the heart of our very own Latin Quarters we have Syne (0832 245 3611) and Sosa (0832 222 8063) stocking clothes, accessories catering mainly to women. For locally hand made, painted and reasonably priced ceramic antiques, head straight to Marcos Artefacts (0832 222 4451), for more sophisticated and export pieces, make a dash to Velha Casa next to Panjim Inn.
Explore Fusion Access and The Attic for their unique range in furniture.
I was saddened at not finding any good antiques shops to bring back any souvenir.
A word of big caution: The city is best divulge on foot. Strictly avoid autos or taxis as they charge insanely high. Although bikes are available on rent but its an extra headache regards to licence and other liabilities before you ride off. The city adores its sundays. No body, no body I repeat, works on this day. And they respect their lunch hours during weekdays, which is between 1pm to 3pm. Strictly no business whatsoever.
Nevertheless its in the Latin Quarters that your heart attempts to climb out of your throat. This place has been the nerve centre of Christian life in Goa for over centuries and some of the countries most Portuguese history belongs in its inner half among churches, homes, cuisine, people and the slowish pace. Panjim, in every sense, reminds you that travel is not always about movement.
